We arrived Monday morning (after spending about 1.5 hours waiting in a pointless line for a uniformed Belgian pencil neck to peer querulously at our passports and say, “What are you doing here?”). At least we got a free tiny bottle of water while we interminably queued.
After passport control, our bags were sitting and waiting for us (hooray!), then we went and found the train station and were puzzled by how much simpler it seemed than the last time we were in Belgium. Did it get simpler? Are we just more seasoned travelers? No problem getting to our room (though there was some mild drama getting info from our host and getting information to get in the door).
Immediately after early check-in, we headed to Cantillon. We figured we would find food on the way, but we did not. That’s OK. We did the Cantillon tour again, it hasn’t changed much — but the bar has changed a lot. In fact it’s a completely different bar, though the staff and the selection are quite familiar.
After our tour-related samples, I got in line to get a lambic we hadn’t tried before. Not too oddly, it was the same lambic being ordered by the guy in front of me…more oddly, he ordered the last bottle in existence, apparently. He offered to share, we ordered a bottle of Lou Pepe Kriek 2023 to share in return, and we got to know my new friend John Corners (translated literally from Italian — actually lives near where my brother currently lives in Italy). We talked and shared beer with JC for a couple hours before he had to go to the airport and fly home. Lots of weird parallels — he had just run in a marathon in Leuven (where we were going the next day), and he gave us some recommendations. We decided after a while that I was his third wife, and he was my third wife.
After hanging with JC (and KrisDi nodding off at the bar), we headed back toward our room. We stopped at Kebap X for surprisingly good doner kebap with some free tea for lunch, went back to the room, went to Wolf Food Market, and then tried to go to Nuitnigenough (one hour wait? nah), and went somewhere else (55% confidence it was Boemvol Brasserie) for dinner, where we both had somewhat traditional Belgian food (stouvflees and white sausage).
We stopped at a grocery store for basic supplies after and went back to the room. Then we realized we didn’t have any soap so I went out for that.
The next morning, after a jet-lag-ridden mediocre-at-best night of sleep, we got some coffee and figured out how to go to Leuven. KrisDi had decided she wanted to go there independently of the fact that I have work friends who live there.
Breakfast at Barleuv, which was really good. Both of us had piles of meaty things on top of waffles. Took pictures in front of the town hall and cathedral, went into the library and climbed up the bell tower, came back down and walked to Oude Markt and then the botanical garden. Then Malz based on John Corners’ recommendation (talked for a while with the California bartender who was very nice), then Oude Markt. We tried to go to Domus, but it was closed. We went to Cafe Fiere Magriet, also on JC’s recommendation.
We met with my Belgian work friends at Gloria for dinner, where I had beef tartare and KrisDi got pork cheek stew (might have been stouvflees again).
Then we went back to the room for jet-lag-ridden mediocre sleep.
We set an alarm for 8, but didn’t sleep until it went off. Grabbed some coffee and an apple tart in the morning and headed to Liege. Long walk from the train station there, but liege waffles for breakfast and then a million jillion stairs (374 + 57 to be precise). We walked around at the top of Liege for a while and then decided to try and follow a different route down…which we discovered was not actually a route, and I convinced KrisDi to follow me anyway, which included plowing through thorns and climbing over a wire fence on a six inch wide dirt “path” that warned us against touching any dead boars we found. Not a normal KrisDi thing…but she was willing to try anything to avoid backtracking back up another 100 stairs or so. I enjoyed it.
We went to Peket after that and had some weird fruit infused brandy-like stuff that was pretty good. Then we had Liege meatballs at Bouletterie Lieges. They were pretty good. We walked to Watch Smell Taste (whiskey/beer store), wandered around a mall, then walked around St. Maguerite, then a beer at TriPick before getting supplies at Carrefour Express and drinking Tripel Karmeliet on the train on the way back.
We had dinner a couple hours ago at Cafe Ommegang (it was fine), then dawdled our way back to the room, where I’m now drinking a whisky infused Gouden Carolus while I try to recall all that has happened in the last two days.
Bed time soon…